PFWM AW18: PALOMO SPAIN Love interviews
Designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo has been making waves ever since his debut season in Autumn Winter 17. The 25-year-old innovator founded the menswear label, Palomo Spain, shortly after graduating from London College of Fashion in 2015. Palomo creates theatrical and beautiful garments whilst subconsciously challenging gender ideologies. Honouring his heritage, the young designer employs Spanish manufacturing techniques to his designs and incorporates traditional Spanish styles, and this season is no different.
Kicking off Paris Fashion Week, Palomo did not disappoint. Known for his eccentric style, the designer projected an array of concepts throughout the collection, including wildlife and nature, all of which were immersed with the hunting traditions from his native country. The collection was also dripped in a delicate drizzle of eroticism to create innovative and authentic garments. The notion of hunting, for Palomo, represents masculinity and tradition. Every Sunday as a child his father would go hunting in the woods, therefore the idea of introducing eroticism to something predominately perceived as masculine, is ironic. Palomo explains, "Hunting has been very present all my life and I have depicted it as a very traditional activity. Loving this rather “conventional” aesthetic I wanted to at it to create a whole different imagery, a new world around it. I also played a lot with irony."
Palomo said. "Erotocism and sensuality are elements that are present in all fields of my life." Flirting with the idea of eroticism and fantasy, Palomo uses it to translate his own language through his garments, rather than consciously challenge the masculine ideology. Alejandro has always been incredibly vocal about his confusion regarding societies need to distinguish between masculinity and femininity. Whether those terms are 'gender-fluid' or 'unisex', Palomo designs clothes purely to inspire and enjoy, regardless of how they will be pigeon-holed in terms of gender. Therefore, the theme of self-expression is something that is channelled throughout his Autumn Winter 18 collection.
This season saw Little Red Riding Hood velvet capes, contemporary takes on Spanish traditional garments and country tweed patterns with faux-fur trim. Palomo also experimented with enlarged silhouettes, ultimately creating more clothes he will wear himself. The designer said, "I have tried to liberate the body, rather than the tightness I usually bring with the clothes. I'm actually really feeling big coats this season."
Craftsmanship is incredibly important to Palomo, therefore this collection conveys historical influences throughout, whilst incorporating traditional Spanish construction techniques. "I cannot create without looking at the past and making a contrast into something that I consider to be fresher. I will definitely continue doing it." Combining the past and the present Palomo has created a collection that is not only innovative but still remains fun and relevant. Palomo explains, "I always try to have fun whatever the references are. Having fun and having a very aesthetically sense of humour is a big part of my job."
Being relatively new to the fashion scene designer, founder and innovator, Alejandro Gómez Palomo has already made a name for himself and this is only the beginning. Pushing the boundaries of erotic fantasy whilst honouring his heritage, Palomo intertwined elements of the past and present to create a truly authentic collection. He explains. "I just want my models, my friends, my clients, the people who wear it, I want them to feel confident and sexy in my clothes. It's very important to feel great in what you wear."
Man-of-the-moment Alejandro Gómez Palomo has created a collection that embodies everything that he represents. But, when asked which historical figure he envisaged wearing this collection, he said. "Felipe IV, King of Spain and Michael Jackson."