RUNWAY

January 9, 2018

TOM FORD GOES FURLESS AT NYFW, HERALDING A FUR-FREE FUTURE

 

 

 

 

 

PFWM AW18: DIOR HOMME - Designer, Kris Van Assche Interview

 

 

 

 

 

A remix of the iconic 80s track “Forever Young” boomed out to open the The Dior Homme Winter 18 show, followed by classics “I’ve Got The Power” and “Take On Me”. The title “Forever Young” is utterly apt for a collection in which the dualism of youth and heritage is key. The collection is simultaneously injected with the reckless abandon and freedom of adolescence, whilst being nostalgically indebted to the brand’s heritage of sartorial finesse.

Having recently celebrated his 10th year at the helm of Dior Homme, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche is now its longest serving creative director, and invigorated by the power of youth, he is clearly still having fun with the Parisian brand.

Previous collections have seen Van Assche serve up a synthesis of counter-culture influences to reimagine the codes of sartorial suiting: from punks to goths, hardcore ravers, and skaters. Van Assche declares the next chapter of his counter-culture inspiration for the Winter 18 collection to be “tribal 90s clubbing”. Dior Homme clothes have previously shared the stage with skate ramps and a funfair, and for this collection it’s sculptural multi coloured lights in black framed boxes which take centre stage, riffing on the rave narrative. Against this backdrop, the pieces are a remix of his own boyhood memories, of which he comments “I myself was more like the New Wave kid, like the dark romantic thing, but I saw those club kids with the shaved hair”. The inspiration he draws from this symbolism of 90s tattoo culture is evident in the spiked tattoo motif, a graphic rave totem which is scaled up and down to become an all-over print, or even shaved into the models’ hair.

It was whilst researching streetwear that he re-discovered these party-boy hair-dos. Indeed, Van Assche’s integration of streetwear into the rigorous established codes of Homme have won over a new, youthful fan base for the brand - Bella Hadid was in attendance at the show. A turn toward the youth vote is also reflected by his choice of ambassadors - from A$AP Rocky to Oliver Sims of the XX, alongside the Pet Shop Boys.

But how do you coax a youthful audience out of sweaters and hoodies and into a single breasted jacket? Van Assche insists “I keep reading everywhere that tailoring is over, and I’m so not convinced about it. It’s really about giving them the right suit”. In terms of appealing to the youth, the logo t-shirts tucked into bootcut blue jeans, paired with small round sunglasses, sneakers, and puffer jackets with forest green trim formed ironic compositions of a teenage wardrobe. It felt young and carefree, and as the designer puts it “brings the casual mood to the show”.

Alongside this, Dior is a house which is steeped in it’s own history, and the suit will always be the totem of Dior Homme. Of the ‘pick-n-mix’ trends that define menswear in 2018, Van Assche explains “Everything gets so confused - everything is loose, everything is casual, everything is oversized - high end, low end, street, sports, luxury, everything looks kind of alike”. Within this melting-pot environment, it was important than ever “for Dior to insist on its DNA: the sharply cut suit, the tailored suit”. In this respect, the formal side of the collection is indebted to Mr. Dior’s pristine tailoring and intricate pattern making. Sophisticated variations of the iconic Bar Jacket act as an homage to this effect, as double-breasted dinner jackets bearing slotted lapels and patch pockets are characteristically pinched at the waist. Van Assche explains that many of these cuts and detailing are borrowed from archives which he found of Mr. Dior’s creations. This is demonstrative of his search for what can be extracted from the past and made relevant for a new generation.

The Winter 18 collection remained loyal to the notion of contrast which lies at the house of Dior’s heart. It is the tension created when sartorial tailoring is peppered with elements of streetwear and subcultural narratives that has allowed Van Assche to manipulate and reinvent the mores of menswear.

 

dgnak backstage

All images By @jofetto for Desire Homme

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jordanluca show

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A cold wall backstage

 

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

 image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

 

image By @jofetto for Desire Homme

 

10 years of Dior Homme by Kris Van Assche

 

 

 

 

 

On the occasion of Dior Homme's 10th anniversary, Kris Van Assche reveals the fashion house's technician, located at 3 Marignan Street. ) In the 8th district of Paris, reflecting on the steps and milestones at the heart of the Summer 2018 Collection, which reveals the demolition of the structure. (Deconstruction) and reshape again. The Reconstruction of Dior Orm suits to create a volume.

 

Blazer is slimmer and looks like a sculpture. Tailor made from Ottoman Black is offered in a variety of styles, such as summer coats for summer wear.   Dior Homme Jacket is divided into a jacket, sleeveless jacket or back jacket (Gilet), as well as an outer jacket , a long back (Bias-Cut Tailcoat). Polo and shirt Include wide leg pants. While the sleeves are tied at the waist, In addition, there are experiments blending the aura of maturity. The Varsity Jacket is blended with a delicate suit. It is a Bomber, a university bracelet, and a top-of-the-line sports jacket (Track Tops), as well as an Argyle sewing kit. Decorated with gemstones, gothic style look naive.

 

 

Loose sewing and loose ends become unintentional. While monochrome ribbons appear throughout the collection, such as decorating the edges, they offer a sporty feel. It is also blended with the logo to enhance the hooded outfit. The decoration on the Nappa bag in the portraiture of the hooded portraits and black orchid is taken from the oil paintings of the artist. Francois Bard was tinged in cyan and yellow to vermillion, burgundy, camel and sky blue. )

     Independence of innocence appears throughout. Reflecting on the mood of the summer, the combination of sportswear and suits fit seamlessly.

 

 

 

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